I’m not an adrenaline junkie; I won’t jump out of …– Garrett McNamara
I’m not an adrenaline junkie; I won’t jump out of aeroplanes and I’m afraid of horses. I just love surfing.
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I’m not an adrenaline junkie; I won’t jump out of aeroplanes and I’m afraid of horses. I just love surfing.
To acknowledge that the biggest wave in the world might be a shore break off a little Portuguese town no one has ever heard of
Nothing I’ve achieved in my life has ever come about because of alcohol.
Well, it was – big wave surfing was my job. And I had to accomplish some great feat every year. And we kept finding bigger
I love getting pounded. It makes me feel more alive.
It’s so amazing to just be in the water, surfing with your friends.
I went to Alaska a while back and surfed the waves generated from a glacier calving and ever since then, I’ve never been afraid in
It’s just the most amazing feeling to be out there in the water riding waves. It’s like walking on the water.
When I’m riding a wave and making it, it’s just like, ‘Alright, yeah, another wave.’ But when you’re getting pounded and thrown in every direction,
When you wipe out, all you can do is let the wave take you and stay calm until you can come up for air.
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